Menemsha · the dunes at sunsetPhoto by MV Vacation
A shingled house on the dune at Menemsha as the sun goes into the Sound. This is the light Alfred Eisenstaedt came back for every August for half a century, and the reason the Menemsha Inn keeps a room in his name.
Who summered where on Martha's Vineyard, and what a visitor can actually see: Eisenstaedt's Menemsha, Benton's Chilmark, Cronkite's Edgartown harbour, Styron and Buchwald in Vineyard Haven, McCullough and Katharine Graham in West Tisbury, Belushi's grave at Abel's Hill, and the Onassis farm in Aquinnah that opened to the public in 2025. Public places named, private homes left alone.
Martha's Vineyard is famous partly for who kept coming back. A president's widow bought a farm above the cliffs; the most trusted man in America moored his ketch in Edgartown; the century's great photojournalist died in a Menemsha cottage he had rented for fifty Augusts; a Pulitzer novelist wrote in longhand behind a Vineyard Haven house; a comedian is buried by a Chilmark road with beer bottles on the stone. Visitors ask about these people constantly, and the island's answer is a shrug, because the whole point of the place was that nobody bothered them. This guide honours that. It tells you who summered where, town by town, and it separates the places you can actually stand in, a gallery, a cemetery, a public reservation, an auction tent, from the houses that are still somebody's home and are not on any map of ours.
Menemsha and Chilmark: the photographer and the painter
Alfred Eisenstaedt first came in 1937, a young Life photographer on assignment, and said the Gay Head cliffs reduced him to tears. He came back every August for the rest of his life, took the Pilot House cottage at the Menemsha Inn, walked the up-island roads with a camera, and died in that cottage in August 1995 at 96. In between he photographed the island the way he photographed everything: a ferry breaking through harbour ice in 1961, the Gazette's pressroom in 1952, a Wampanoag schoolteacher in Aquinnah, Walter Cronkite on the Edgartown Yacht Club tennis court in 1975, a president on vacation in 1993, a crooked oak in West Tisbury he made locally famous. The Granary Gallery in West Tisbury gave him his first show in 1986, became his island living room, and still carries close to a hundred of his prints; the Martha's Vineyard Museum built a summer exhibition around him in 2024 from its own collection and his recorded voice; the inn keeps his portrait over a bookcase in the Eisenstaedt room. Thomas Hart Benton got there first: the Missouri painter spent his first summer in Chilmark in 1920 and about fifty more, and his Vineyard pictures of fishermen, dunes and farm people are in the Granary's back rooms and in museums from here to Kansas City. His 1926 portrait of George and Sabrina West, an elderly deaf farm couple from Chilmark, hangs in the Whitney Museum in New York as The Lord Is My Shepherd; it is the island's famous deaf community, the one that grew its own sign language, sitting for a painter. Benton's student Jackson Pollock spent the summers of 1934, 1936 and 1938 with the family in Chilmark, sleeping in a converted chicken coop and doing more clamming, woodcutting and house-painting than art. Both are in our galleries guide; the light they chased is in the photo spots guide.
Cronkite kept a house on Green Hollow from 1974 until his death in 2009 and his 43-foot ketch Wyntje at the dock below it, sailed the Sound for thirty summers, and wrote two books about it with the island painter Ray Ellis. In 1968 James Reston of the New York Times bought the Vineyard Gazette from Henry Beetle Hough and his family owned it until 2010; the paper he bought still comes out from its offices in the village and is where most of our checking starts. Public: the harbour Cronkite sailed, best from Memorial Wharf; the Gazette in print every week. Private: the house, sold by his heirs in 2011.
William Styron rented a house on the harbour in 1959, bought one, and wrote much of Sophie’s Choice in a studio behind it in pencil on legal pads; the harbour houses became known as writers’ row. Art Buchwald and Mike Wallace played tennis together up the hill, and Buchwald founded the Possible Dreams auction in 1979 and hosted it as a cowboy-hatted auctioneer for 28 summers; it still runs every August for Martha’s Vineyard Community Services, with a celebrity host, and anyone can buy a ticket. Carly Simon started singing here as a girl and lives here year-round. Public: the harbour walk to Owen Park, the auction, the Playhouse. Private: every one of the houses.
David McCullough moved to Music Street in 1972 and wrote most of his books, Truman and John Adams among them, in an eight-by-ten shed in the back yard until his death in 2022. In the same year Katharine Graham of the Washington Post bought Mohu, 218 acres at Lambert’s Cove, because Henry Beetle Hough begged her to save it from developers; her family sold the last of it in 2019 for a record $32.5 million. Public: the Granary Gallery, Alley’s porch, the Ag Hall. Private: Music Street and Mohu both. Earlier still, Joshua Slocum farmed here from 1901 until he sailed out of Vineyard Haven for good in 1909; his story is its own post.
Benton’s fifty summers are above. At Abel’s Hill Cemetery on South Road, a cemetery four centuries old, John Belushi’s stone stands by the entrance (moved there with his widow’s permission when fans wore a path through the older graves), a boulder up the path reads BELUSHI, and visitors leave beer bottles, coins and quotes; Lillian Hellman’s grave a few rows on collects coins. Public: the cemetery, free and open. James Taylor lives up-island and plays the island now and then; where, is not our business.
Mrs. Onassis bought Red Gate Farm, hundreds of acres between Squibnocket Pond and the ocean, in the late 1970s, and her family kept it for forty years. In 2020 the Land Bank and Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation bought 304 acres of it for $27 million, added 32 more in 2021, and in June 2025 opened it as the Squibnocket Pond Reservation: a north trail to the pond and a south trail to the Atlantic beach, with a handful of reserved parking spaces a day in summer. The family keeps 65 acres and the house in the middle, out of sight. Public, at last: most of the land. Private: the house, exactly as it always was.
Dorothy West, Adam Clayton Powell Jr., Paul Robeson and Ethel Waters at Shearer Cottage; the Obamas from 2009 (they bought in Edgartown in 2019); the Clintons in the nineties; Spike Lee in the Highlands. Our Heritage Trail guide and the Inkwell post tell the long version, which is the more interesting one.
Aquinnah · Gay Head Light at duskPhoto by MV Vacation
Gay Head Light on its moved footing at dusk. The cliffs below it are the view that undid Eisenstaedt in 1937; the farm along the pond behind it was the Onassis place, and since 2025 most of it is yours to walk.
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Two trails, pond and ocean, on the former Red Gate Farm. Summer parking is by advance reservation, ten spaces at the north trailhead and eleven at the south, on the model of the James Pond preserve; off-season, arrive and walk. No drones, no dogs on the beach in season, and the house is not on the trail.
Eisenstaedt, Benton and a hundred living artists in a restored grain barn, free, open daily year-round, with Friday receptions in summer. The nearest thing the island has to a museum of its famous summer people.
The island’s own collection, in the 1895 Marine Hospital: Eisenstaedt’s photographs and voice, the Benton material, Dorothy West, the Gazette’s history. Exhibitions rotate; the permanent galleries do the island’s whole story.
Buchwald’s auction, 47 years on, at Allen Farm in 2026 with a television host and lots that money cannot usually buy. Tickets on the Community Services site; our events calendar has the date.
Thirty marked sites, beginning at Shearer Cottage, for the community that made Oak Bluffs the most famous Black summer town in America.
Public and private
The island's famous people came here because a lobsterman would not look up when they walked past, and that bargain is still in force. So this guide names what is open to everyone, the Gazette, the galleries, the cemetery, the auction tent and the reservation, and leaves the houses on writers' row, on Green Hollow, on Music Street and by the pond in Aquinnah as what they are, somebody's home, without addresses. A familiar face at the farmers market gets a nod here, the same as anyone. The Jaws tour is the one outing on the island where the famous are the actual programme.
At a glance
Menemsha
Alfred Eisenstaedt, 1937 to 1995, Menemsha Inn; Granary Gallery prints; museum collection
Chilmark
Thomas Hart Benton from 1920; Belushi and Hellman at Abel’s Hill; Possible Dreams at Allen Farm
Aquinnah
Red Gate Farm, now Squibnocket Pond Reservation (public since June 2025)
West Tisbury
David McCullough on Music Street; Katharine Graham’s Mohu (private)
Vineyard Haven
Styron, Buchwald, Wallace, Carly Simon; Possible Dreams founded here in 1979
Edgartown
Walter Cronkite and Wyntje; the Gazette under the Restons 1968 to 2010
Oak Bluffs
Dorothy West, Shearer Cottage, the Obamas and the Clintons on vacation
How we checked this
Eisenstaedt’s island years, the Pilot House, his subjects and the 2024 exhibition are from the Vineyard Gazette of July 3, 2024 and August 24, 2016 and the Martha’s Vineyard Museum; the Granary’s holdings from the gallery and our galleries guide. Cronkite’s house, boat and books are from the Gazette’s 2009 and 2011 reporting; the Reston purchase and the 2010 sale from the Gazette and the Martha’s Vineyard Times. Styron, McCullough and Graham are from the Gazette’s obituaries and property reporting (2006, 2022, 2001, 2018 and 2019); Possible Dreams from Community Services and the Gazette; Abel’s Hill from the Gazette of September 12, 2019; Red Gate Farm and the reservation from the Gazette of September 2020, September 2021 and June 12, 2025. Benton’s first summer is from the Times’ 2019 exhibition coverage and the artist’s biographers. A 1980 book of Eisenstaedt’s island photographs with text by Polly Burroughs prompted this piece; nothing here is taken from it. The photographs are ours.
Island tip of the daySeasonalNo. 77 of 86
The first two weeks of June are genuinely quiet. Most businesses are open but visitor numbers are low. Perfect for couples. Downside: water is cold (55–60°F) and fog is common.
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Disclaimer: The information in this article is provided for general guidance only and was accurate at the time of writing. Beach conditions, hours, prices, lifeguard schedules, ferry fares, and business operations change frequently and without notice. Ocean swimming carries inherent risks including rip currents, undertow, and cold water shock. Always verify current conditions with official local sources before your visit. MV Vacation assumes no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience resulting from the use of this information. Swim only where lifeguards are on duty, supervise children at all times near water, and follow all posted safety signs.
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