By MV VacationUpdated 08 Oct, 20268 mins read 227 views
The harbor · from the beachPhoto by MV Vacation
The harbor under a gray sky. Slocum kept the Spray in Vineyard Haven between voyages, and in November 1909 he sailed out and never sailed back in.
Joshua Slocum, first to sail alone around the world, spent his last years farming in West Tisbury and vanished from Vineyard Haven harbor in November 1909. The voyage, the farm called Fag End, the last departure, and what a visitor can actually see: the harbor, a marker stone by a country road, the museum's Slocum papers, and the book itself.
On a November day in 1909 a small, worn sloop left Vineyard Haven harbor with one old man aboard, bound for South America, and was never seen again. The man was Joshua Slocum, the first person to sail alone around the world, and for the last eight years of his life he had been, to his own mild surprise, a farmer in West Tisbury. His book is still in print, his boat is still argued over by naval architects, and the island keeps his traces lightly: a marker stone by a fence on a country road, a harbor that was his last home port, a pamphlet with a scrap of his sail in the museum's archives. Below is the story, and what a visitor can still find of it.
Slocum was born in Nova Scotia in 1844, went to sea at sixteen, and spent thirty years as a merchant captain in the age when sail was losing to steam. By his fifties he had no ship. A friend in Fairhaven, across the water from New Bedford, gave him a derelict oyster sloop called Spray, and Slocum rebuilt her plank by plank over 1891 and 1892 into a stubby, beamy boat a little under 37 feet long. On April 24, 1895 he sailed her out of Boston alone. He came back into Newport, Rhode Island on June 27, 1898, three years and more than 46,000 miles later, having crossed every ocean, threaded the Strait of Magellan twice, and, by his own account, outrun a pirate felucca off the Moroccan coast. Nobody had ever done it single-handed. The Century Magazine serialized his story from 1899 and it came out as a book, Sailing Alone Around the World, in 1900. It is one of the few sailing classics that non-sailors read for pleasure, dry and funny and completely without heroics, and it has never been out of print.
Fag End: the farm in West Tisbury
The book and the lecture circuit gave Slocum the first money he had ever had that did not depend on a ship, and in 1901 he spent it on a small farm on the Edgartown-West Tisbury Road. He called the place Fag End. The house was already old when he bought it, built in 1743, and he added rooms; a post in the kitchen carries the carving "Slocum 1902" and the name of the Falmouth lumber yard that supplied the timber. He grew hops in a valley near the house, and, in the Vineyard Gazette's later judgment, farmed poorly, which was a family tradition. The island did not make much of him; the museum’s own note on him says islanders called him an off-islander, and left it at that. Within two years he was restless: he sailed the Spray up the New England coast in summer and down to the West Indies in winter, lecturing and selling copies of the book from the deck, and came back to the farm between times. The Martha's Vineyard Museum has a photograph of the Spray at Menemsha in June 1903, and a Sloop Spray Souvenir pamphlet from 1901 that his wife Henrietta put together, with a swatch of the original sail bound into it.
A farm off the roadPhoto by MV Vacation
A farm field behind a stone wall and a split-rail fence. Slocum farmed in West Tisbury and, by the Gazette’s account, farmed badly.
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November 1909
He was sixty-five. The Spray was tired and so, by the accounts of people who saw him that autumn, was he. He told people he meant to sail to the West Indies and then up the Orinoco River in Venezuela, and on November 14, 1909 he left Vineyard Haven alone. No wreckage was found, no word came, and no theory has ever been proved: a collision with a steamer at night, a storm, a boat simply too old for one more passage. Henrietta waited at Fag End, then sold the house, according to island memory, to a silent-film actress. In 1924 he was declared legally dead. Sailing Alone had a hundred years of readers ahead of it, and sailors have been building replicas of the Spray ever since to find out whether the boat really was as steady as he said.
The island kept one small memory of the leaving. Captain Norman Benson, a trap fisherman from Lambert’s Cove who was a friend of Slocum’s, is remembered in the 1980 Eisenstaedt and Burroughs book on the island as the man who gave the Spray a last coat of bottom paint before she sailed; we have not found it in any other record, so take it as island memory rather than documented fact.
A stony beach · sunsetPhoto by MV Vacation
Sunset over the water from a beach of rounded boulders and stones.
The harbor Slocum sailed out of is the working harbor you see from Owen Park and the ferry: schooners, the Black Dog wharf, moorings out to West Chop. Nothing marks him here. Our sailing guide covers what floats in it now.
Fag End is still a family's house on the Edgartown-West Tisbury Road, low and shingled with a curious roof line, a rail fence and a marker on a large stone out front. The road is public, and the stone is what you can see from it. The famous residents guide has the island’s other private houses and public places.
The museum in Vineyard Haven holds the Joshua Slocum Collection: a 1904 letter, the 1901 Sloop Spray Souvenir with its scrap of sail, clippings from 1900 on, and the 1903 photograph of the Spray at Menemsha. They are archives rather than a gallery, kept by the museum’s research library; the maritime gallery upstairs is the part on public display.
The harbor where the museum’s 1903 photograph was taken still looks like a place a 37-foot sloop would fit. The fishing fleet is the attraction now.
THE BOOK Free, and in his own words
Sailing Alone Around the World is long out of copyright; any library or free ebook site has it. The chapter on the Strait of Magellan, with the tacks he scattered on deck for barefoot boarders, is a good place to start.
Vineyard Haven · the boatyardPhoto by MV Vacation
The Gannon and Benjamin yard: a wooden boat hauled out with the ladders up, skiffs pulled onto the sand, a big white ship behind.
At a glance
Born
February 20, 1844, Nova Scotia
The Spray
Rebuilt in Fairhaven 1891–92; 36 feet 9 inches; gaff-rigged sloop, later yawl
Circumnavigation
Boston, April 24, 1895 to Newport, June 27, 1898; more than 46,000 miles
The book
Serialized in The Century from 1899, book 1900; still in print, public domain
The farm
Fag End, West Tisbury, bought 1901; house built 1743; private today
Last seen
Vineyard Haven, November 14, 1909, sailing for South America
Declared dead
1924
How we checked this
The voyage dates, the Spray’s dimensions and the 1924 declaration are from Slocum’s own book and his biographers as summarized in the standard references. The farm purchase, the 1743 house, the "Slocum 1902" post, the marker stone and the sale to an actress are from the Martha’s Vineyard Times West Tisbury column of December 13, 2021; the hops from the Times of October 2, 2019; "farmed it poorly" from the Vineyard Gazette of March 24, 2011, which gives his departure as 1908 where every other source, including the museum, gives November 1909. The museum holdings are from the finding aid to the Joshua Slocum Collection, Record Unit 336. A 1980 book of Eisenstaedt photographs says Slocum wrote Sailing Alone at the farm; the book was published before he bought it, so we have not repeated that. The photographs are ours. The house is private and we give no directions beyond the road.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who was Joshua Slocum?
The first person to sail alone around the world: born in Nova Scotia in 1844, a merchant captain for thirty years, he rebuilt a derelict oyster sloop called Spray and sailed her out of Boston alone on April 24, 1895, returning to Newport on June 27, 1898 after more than 46,000 miles.
What is his connection to Martha’s Vineyard?
For the last eight years of his life he was, to his own surprise, a farmer in West Tisbury, and Vineyard Haven was his last home port.
What happened to him?
In November 1909 he left Vineyard Haven harbor alone in the worn Spray, bound for South America, and was never seen again.
What can a visitor see?
A marker stone by a fence on a West Tisbury road, the harbor he sailed from, and a pamphlet with a scrap of his sail in the museum’s archives.
Is his book still in print?
Yes. Sailing Alone Around the World, serialized by The Century Magazine from 1899, has never gone out of print, and naval architects still argue over the Spray.
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