Island Guide · Martha’s Vineyard · The whole island

Martha’s Vineyard

Six towns, twenty beaches and one ferry that decides how the day starts

Dukes County · Massachusetts · Islandwide
Island guideSix townsFerries year-roundWritten on the island
The clay cliffs at Aquinnah above the beach at dusk
Aquinnah · the cliffs at dusk

Twenty miles long, nine wide, and six towns that do not feel alike. This is the far end of it.

Plate 01

Martha’s Vineyard is an island just south of Cape Cod. People come for the beaches, the harbours and the pace, and stay longer than they planned because the island is small enough to cross in an hour and varied enough that the two ends have almost nothing in common.

The six towns

Six towns share the island, and they do not feel alike.

06 TOWNS
DOWN-ISLANDEdgartown

The old whaling town: the lighthouse, the white captains’ houses, the restaurants and the beaches beyond them.

DOWN-ISLANDOak Bluffs

Gingerbread cottages, the carousel and most of the island’s nightlife.

DOWN-ISLANDVineyard Haven

The year-round port. Local shops, working boatyards and the sailing culture that goes with them.

UP-ISLANDWest Tisbury

Farms, artisans and Alley’s General Store, which has been trading since 1858.

UP-ISLANDChilmark

Rolling hills, stone walls, and Menemsha at the end of the road.

UP-ISLANDAquinnah

Wampanoag land, and the clay cliffs that most people picture when they picture the island.

The beaches

Every town has sand. These are the four visitors ask about most. The full list is here, grouped by which shore you are on and who is allowed on it.

04 BEACHES
KATAMASouth Beach

Three miles of open Atlantic. Surf, dunes and a real undertow.

OAK BLUFFSState Beach

Shallow, warm and calm. The family default, and the easiest to reach.

CHILMARKMenemsha Beach

Sound-side water and the sunset the island turns out for.

CHILMARKLucy Vincent

Clay cliffs and Atlantic surf. Chilmark permit in summer, open to all outside it.

The fishing village and harbour at Menemsha in ChilmarkA
The beach at Right Fork in Katama, EdgartownB
The bridge over the channel at State Beach between Oak Bluffs and EdgartownC
Three faces of one islandPlate 02

A: Menemsha, a working fishing harbour that has not been prettied up; B: the sand at Katama on the ocean side; C: the bridge at State Beach, where the channel runs between the pond and the Sound.

Where to stay

Lodging runs from small inns to the old harbour hotels and private rentals. Summer dates go early. Book months ahead if you can. Our full where-to-stay guide goes into the trade-offs town by town.

05 OPTIONS
EDGARTOWNHarbor View Hotel, Edgartown Inn

The upper end, and walking distance to the water.

OAK BLUFFSSummercamp, The Attleboro House

Walkable and lively at night, which is either the point or the problem.

VINEYARD HAVENMansion House, Vineyard Square

The most reliable year-round options, in the year-round town.

UP-ISLANDBeach Plum Inn

Quiet and rural, with the trade-off that you will want a car.

RENTALSWhole houses

Usually the best fit for families. Summer weeks commonly run $3,000 to $7,000.

Where to eat

From seafood shacks to farm-to-table dining rooms, with a few late-night options. The full restaurant guide has the rest.

04 PLACES
ICONICBlack Dog Tavern, State Road

The two names everyone will tell you, for two very different meals.

SEAFOOD19 Raw, Lookout Tavern

Oysters and a harbour view, both in Oak Bluffs.

CASUALBack Door Donuts, The Barn

The late-night doughnut window is a genuine island institution.

LOCALMenemsha Fish Market, Morning Glory Farm

Buy it where it landed or where it grew, and eat outside.

Getting here

Most visitors arrive by ferry from Woods Hole on the Steamship Authority. Seasonal ferries run from Hyannis, Falmouth, Quonset and New Bedford, and there are direct flights in season. If you are bringing a car in summer, the reservation is the hard part, not the crossing.

A Steamship Authority ferry arriving at Martha’s Vineyard
Steamship Authority · the crossing from Woods HolePlate 03

Forty-five minutes, year-round, and the only way most vehicles get here. Book the car months out; walking on is easy.

Getting around

You can reach almost anywhere here without a car. Our bus guide plots the routes and the transfers.

05 WAYS
$10 A DAYThe VTA bus

Unlimited rides, connecting every town. The single best-value thing on the island.

$30–$50 A DAYBike rental

Ideal for Katama and Edgartown, and for the paved mid-island paths.

ISLAND-WIDETaxis and rideshare

Available, though not always quickly in July and August.

FREEWalking

Downtown Oak Bluffs and Edgartown are both walkable end to end.

IF YOU MUSTA car

Genuinely useful up-island. Parking in July and August is the catch.

Things to do

05 IDEAS
UP-ISLANDThe Aquinnah cliffs overlook

The walk out is short and the view is the one on the postcards.

BY BIKEEdgartown to South Beach to Katama

The loop most people do first, and it is flat.

IN TOWNGalleries and shops

Oak Bluffs and Edgartown, both walkable.

EVENINGSunset at Menemsha

People arrive early and applaud when it goes.

ON THE WATERSengekontacket Pond

Kayaking and paddleboarding on water that stays flat.

Events and festivals

The calendar runs well beyond summer; the events calendar has the dates.

04 EVENTS
AUGUSTThe Agricultural Fair

Four days in West Tisbury, and the island’s oldest tradition.

SUMMERThe Film Festival

Documentary and independent films.

AUTUMNFood and Wine Festival

The culinary weekend, once the crowds thin.

YEAR-ROUNDLive music

Nomans, the Ritz, the Loft and the Lampost carry most of it.

Fruit and vegetable entries on display at the Martha’s Vineyard Agricultural Fair
West Tisbury · the Agricultural FairPhoto by MV Vacation

The produce hall in August. The fair is the one week of the year when the whole island turns up in the same field.

When to come

03 WINDOWS
JULY–AUGUSTPeak season

Warmest weather, warmest water, and the busiest the island gets.

MAY–JUNE, SEPT–OCTShoulder season

The best balance of weather and crowds, and the locals’ answer.

NOVEMBER–APRILOff-season

Quiet. Many places cut hours or close entirely, and the ferry schedule thins.

Wildlife and nature

Ospreys, deer, ocean birds and wild turkeys are all common sights. For walking, the Land Bank trails are among the best on the island, and our wildlife guide covers what you are likely to see and when.

Wild turkeys on a roadside on Martha’s Vineyard
Anywhere, frankly · wild turkeysPhoto by MV Vacation

They have the run of the place, and they do not move for cars.

Know Before You Go

Practical things worth knowing

PACKING

Layers, sunscreen and comfortable shoes. Evenings cool off sharply, even in August.

COSTS

Groceries and dining run roughly 20 to 40 per cent above mainland prices. Budget for it rather than being surprised by it.

CARS

Summer ferry reservations for vehicles are made months in advance. Walking on is easy; driving on is not.

PETS

Beaches have seasonal restrictions and they vary by town. Check the signage at the entrance.

FAMILIES

State Beach, the farms and the town centres are the reliable ones with children.

The Vineyard in the Fall 2026 coverMartha's Vineyard Beach Guide 2026 coverWhere to Stay on Martha's Vineyard 2026-27 coverThree free downloads · 2026The Beach Guide, the Fall Guide and Where to StayEvery beach decoded, the fall season date by date, and every town and price band for sleeping over: three premium PDFs, free with the island letter.Get all three

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