Town Guide · Martha’s Vineyard · Up‑Island

Chilmark

Hilly moorlands, Menemsha fishing village, world-famous sunsets

41.3431° N · 70.7440° W · Beetlebung Corner
A boardwalk winding through weathered trees toward the ocean in Chilmark
The Moor · a boardwalk to the water

A boardwalk bending through wind-killed trees, with the water flat and gray at the end of it.

Plate 01

Chilmark is a rural, up-Island town on the western side of Martha's Vineyard. The English-speaking community here dates to the 1600s, though the land has been home to the Wampanoag people for thousands of years. Chilmark today is preserved farmland, rolling hills and secluded beaches, with a tight-knit population of roughly 1,200 residents.

MV Vacation wrote and photographed this guide on the island.

We respectfully acknowledge the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah) as the original stewards of this land.

Chilmark sits between West Tisbury and Aquinnah, the quiet, rural middle of up-Island. It makes a good base for the western end of the island.

Finding Chilmark

Beetlebung Corner

The center of Chilmark life sits at Beetlebung Corner, where South Road, Middle Road, and Menemsha Crossroad intersect. A handful of places do all the work here:

The essentials

The essentials in Chilmark

03 STOPS
DINING · BYOB Chilmark Tavern

A BYOB restaurant (bring your own bottle: Chilmark is dry, so you carry in the wine and they supply the glasses), known for local ingredients and relaxed, upscale comfort food.

THE HUB Chilmark General Store

The town's kitchen and meeting place: pantry staples, prepared food, sandwiches, pizza and beach basics.

COMMUNITY Chilmark Community Center

Seasonal tennis, camps, film nights, lectures, and public events.

For more up-Island food, nearby West Tisbury has more farm stands and markets, and conservation land to walk.

The farms

Chilmark is one of the Vineyard's most agricultural communities, with active farms supplying produce, dairy, breads, and meats across the island.

04 FARMS
MIDDLE ROAD Mermaid Farm

Known for yogurt, feta, farmstand vegetables, and an honor-box dairy shed on Middle Road.

THE BARN STAND Beetlebung Farm

410 Middle Road, the farmstand in a restored eighteenth-century barn: produce, bread and coffee, Wednesday to Monday 8 to 7 in summer.

CLOSED Grey Barn Farm

Closed permanently to the public in September 2025; the cheeses live on in island shops.

ROADSIDE Local farmstands

Small roadside stands selling flowers, eggs, greens and whatever is in season.

The porch of the Chilmark General Store with flags and flower baskets A
Handwritten price board inside the Mermaid Farm stand B
Goats in the pen at Native Earth Teaching Farm C
Beetlebung Corner and the farms · three studies Plate 02

A: the General Store porch, the town's year-round hub; B: the handwritten price board at the Mermaid Farm dairy shed; C: the herd at Native Earth Teaching Farm.

Trails and ponds

Chilmark touches both Vineyard Sound and the Atlantic, and some of the island's best walking runs between the two.

Eroding sand cliffs above the Atlantic surf on the Chilmark shore
The South Shore · eroding cliffsPlate 01

Where the moor gives out: sand cliffs, stairs and Atlantic surf on Chilmark's south shore.

05 PLACES
TRAILS Menemsha Hills Reservation

Rough trails up to overlooks above Vineyard Sound.

THE COVE Great Rock Bight Preserve

A wooded trail that ends at a small sandy cove.

FOR FAMILIES Island Folk Pottery Sculpture Trail

A woodland path lined with sculptures, made for kids.

PADDLING Quitsa Pond

Nashaquitsa on the map, Quitsa to everyone here: marsh grass, cattails and glacial boulders standing in brackish water, calm enough for kayaks and paddleboards. The pull-off on State Road above it is a favorite stop for the view, with the stone wall framing the boats below.

THE RUN Herring Creek

The creek between Menemsha Pond and Squibnocket Pond, on the line between Chilmark and Aquinnah, is a herring run the Wampanoag Tribe manages on tribal land. Alewives and bluebacks pass a seasonal counting weir from mid-March into June. It is best seen from the water or the road; there is no trail.

Chilmark's two ocean beaches are beautiful, and in summer they are restricted:

The beaches

Beaches in Chilmark

02 BEACHES
PERMIT ONLY Lucy Vincent Beach

Clay cliffs and Atlantic surf. Summer access requires a Chilmark resident or renter permit.

PERMIT ONLY Squibnocket Beach

Secluded shoreline with protected dunes. Also resident-permit-only in summer.

A single dark boulder in the surf on a nearly empty Lucy Vincent Beach, shorebirds flying overhead and two walkers in the distance
Lucy Vincent · after the seasonPlate 02

One boulder in the wash, a flock of shorebirds overhead and only a couple of walkers far down the sand: Lucy Vincent once the sticker season ends.

Chilmark's land, season by season

Chilmark has been a fishing and farming town for close to three centuries, and the land still reads that way: rolling hills, gray stone walls running down to the water, and trees pruned low and leaning by the southwest wind that blows most summer afternoons. Drive down toward Menemsha and you will see whole hillsides of oak and cedar bent the same direction. The fields at Keith Farm on Middle Road, with the barn, the stone wall and the split-rail fence, are one of the best-loved views from a public road on the island. It is a view to take in slowly, since the lane has no room to stop.

Sunflowers growing behind wire deer fencing beside a rural road
An up-island lane · late summerPlate 03

Sunflowers behind deer fencing at the edge of an up-island lane, the way Chilmark gardens have to be built.

The color changes month by month. Yellow Scotch broom opens along the roadsides in June, followed by daisies, rugosa rose, beach pea and black-eyed Susans, then Queen Anne's lace, chicory and orange butterfly weed in high summer, and asters and goldenrod, in more kinds than most people can tell apart, from late August into October. That is also when the wild fruit ripens: beach plums in the dunes, blackberries and grapes along the walls, and the beach plum jelly you see at the farm stands comes from exactly these hedgerows.

Open moor of low scrub in Chilmark with Vineyard Sound on the horizon
The moor · Vineyard Sound beyondPhoto by MV Vacation

Chilmark in its plain clothes: low scrub oak and huckleberry running down to the Sound, the hedgerows waiting for June.

The south shore is the part of Chilmark that will not sit still. Wind and surf take ground from the clay cliffs every year, and the black, white and red clay that slumps onto the sand at Lucy Vincent and along the Wequobsket Cliffs is resculpted by every winter's storms. The cliffs at Windy Gates, the private estate on those bluffs, were for decades the summer home of Roger Baldwin, the founder of the American Civil Liberties Union, who died in 1981 at 97. At Squibnocket the retreat was serious enough that in 2017 and 2018 the town removed the old stone revetment and rebuilt the beach parking lot about 100 feet farther back toward the pond. The cliffs are protected, so climbing and digging for clay are off limits, and so are the dunes.

For the sunset, head down to Menemsha and the public Menemsha Beach, a few minutes away by car.

Menemsha

On Chilmark's north shore, Menemsha is one of the island's last working fishing villages. It has:

  • Two family-run fish markets
  • A public beach that faces the sunset
  • Docks, lobster boats, and working waterfront
  • Boutiques and small seasonal shops

Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public and is many people's favorite place on the island to watch the sunset.

For real-time harbor conditions and coastal scenery, visit our Island Live Webcams.

Small boats moored in a quiet up-Island cove at dusk in Chilmark
Up-Island waters · Chilmark Plate 05

Moored boats at dusk in Chilmark, the water still and pale with the last of the sky.

Know Before You Go

Know before you go

BEACH PERMITS

Lucy Vincent Beach and Squibnocket Beach require a Chilmark resident or registered-renter permit in summer. Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public year-round.

GETTING HERE

You can reach Chilmark by car, bike or Vineyard Transit Authority (VTA) bus, most directly by South Road or Middle Road from West Tisbury.

BY BUS

By bus, VTA Route 5 runs along South Road and Route 4 along North Road, both reached with a change at West Tisbury from the Vineyard Haven and Edgartown buses.

Colorful kayaks and small boats pulled up on a sandy beach on Menemsha Pond
Menemsha Pond · Red BeachPlate 04

Skiffs, sailing dinghies and kayaks pulled up on the sand at Red Beach on the Menemsha side of the pond.

Questions

Questions about Chilmark

What makes Chilmark different?

Farmland, conserved open land, high ground over the ocean, and quiet. It is one of the calmest corners of the island.

Can visitors access Chilmark's beaches?

Lucy Vincent Beach and Squibnocket Beach require a Chilmark resident or registered-renter permit in summer. Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public year-round.

What do people do here?

Hiking Menemsha Hills, exploring farms, kayaking Quitsa Pond, photographing Lucy Vincent Beach, dining at Chilmark Tavern, and visiting Menemsha Harbor.

A large boulder at the edge of a calm pond at dusk with small boats moored beyond
A Chilmark pond · duskPlate 05

Still water at dusk: a glacial boulder at the shoreline, a few moored skiffs and the wooded far shore of a Chilmark pond.

Visitor rules, beach access and seasonal details are in our Martha's Vineyard FAQ.

The Record

Fun facts about Chilmark

Named after Chilmark in Wiltshire, England, the ancestral home of Governor Thomas Mayhew's family.
Chilmark once had one of the highest percentages of deaf residents in the U.S., which is how Martha's Vineyard Sign Language came about.
Noman's Land, south of Chilmark, was used for military training and is now a wildlife refuge closed to the public.
Chilmark has the highest point on Martha's Vineyard.
President Barack Obama vacationed in Chilmark multiple times during his presidency.
The open fields at Keith Farm on Middle Road keep one of Chilmark's best-loved farm views.
Roger Baldwin, founder of the American Civil Liberties Union, summered for decades at Windy Gates on the Chilmark shore.
Thomas Hart Benton's 1926 painting The Lord Is My Shepherd, of George and Sabrina West, a deaf Chilmark farm couple, is in the Whitney Museum's collection in New York; his student Jackson Pollock spent seven summers with the Bentons in Chilmark, from 1931 to 1937.
Chilmark has no yacht club, but the Menemsha Pond Races, a summer tradition since the 1970s, put Herreshoff 12½s and other small boats on the pond; the organizers post the current schedule.
Captain Zeb Tilton, remembered as one of the last of the schooner men, sailed the coasting schooner Alice S. Wentworth from 1921 to 1943; the Martha's Vineyard Museum keeps his story.

More planning tips, beach details and up-Island ideas are in the Chilmark section on MV Vacation.

Chilmark on film

From Our Lens The up-Island quiet, in every light. 29 photographs · View the Chilmark gallery
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More photos: our Chilmark gallery. The rest of the island is in our photo galleries.

For the full 2026 guide with restaurants, events, and practical tips, read our Chilmark and Menemsha Complete Guide (2026).

The Vineyard in the Fall 2026 cover Martha's Vineyard Beach Guide 2026 cover Where to Stay on Martha's Vineyard 2026-27 cover What Martha's Vineyard Really Costs 2026-27 cover Four free downloads · 2026 The Beach Guide, the Fall Guide, Where to Stay and What It Really Costs Every beach, the fall season date by date, every town and price band for a stay, and the budget guide: four PDFs, free with the island letter.
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Written and photographed on Martha's Vineyard by MV Vacation. All photos on this page were taken by MV Vacation during on-island filming and field research. Funded, in part, by the Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism.

More of Chilmark on film

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