A boardwalk bending through wind-killed trees, with the water flat and gray at the end of it.
Plate 01
Chilmark is a rural, up-Island town on the western side of Martha's Vineyard. The English-speaking community here dates to the 1600s, though the land has been home to the Wampanoag people for thousands of years. Chilmark today is preserved farmland, rolling hills and secluded beaches, with a tight-knit population of roughly 1,200 residents.
MV Vacation wrote and photographed this guide on the island.
We respectfully acknowledge the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah) as the original stewards of this land.
Chilmark sits between West Tisbury and Aquinnah, the quiet, rural middle of up-Island. It makes a good base for the western end of the island.
Finding Chilmark
Beetlebung Corner
The center of Chilmark life sits at Beetlebung Corner, where South Road, Middle Road, and Menemsha Crossroad intersect. A handful of places do all the work here:
The essentials
The essentials in Chilmark
03 STOPSA BYOB restaurant (bring your own bottle: Chilmark is dry, so you carry in the wine and they supply the glasses), known for local ingredients and relaxed, upscale comfort food.
The town's kitchen and meeting place: pantry staples, prepared food, sandwiches, pizza and beach basics.
Seasonal tennis, camps, film nights, lectures, and public events.
For more up-Island food, nearby West Tisbury has more farm stands and markets, and conservation land to walk.
The farms
Chilmark is one of the Vineyard's most agricultural communities, with active farms supplying produce, dairy, breads, and meats across the island.
A
B
C A: the General Store porch, the town's year-round hub; B: the handwritten price board at the Mermaid Farm dairy shed; C: the herd at Native Earth Teaching Farm.
Trails and ponds
Chilmark touches both Vineyard Sound and the Atlantic, and some of the island's best walking runs between the two.
Where the moor gives out: sand cliffs, stairs and Atlantic surf on Chilmark's south shore.
Chilmark's two ocean beaches are beautiful, and in summer they are restricted:
The beaches
Beaches in Chilmark
02 BEACHESClay cliffs and Atlantic surf. Summer access requires a Chilmark resident or renter permit.
Secluded shoreline with protected dunes. Also resident-permit-only in summer.
One boulder in the wash, a flock of shorebirds overhead and only a couple of walkers far down the sand: Lucy Vincent once the sticker season ends.
Chilmark's land, season by season
Chilmark has been a fishing and farming town for close to three centuries, and the land still reads that way: rolling hills, gray stone walls running down to the water, and trees pruned low and leaning by the southwest wind that blows most summer afternoons. Drive down toward Menemsha and you will see whole hillsides of oak and cedar bent the same direction. The fields at Keith Farm on Middle Road, with the barn, the stone wall and the split-rail fence, are one of the best-loved views from a public road on the island. It is a view to take in slowly, since the lane has no room to stop.
Sunflowers behind deer fencing at the edge of an up-island lane, the way Chilmark gardens have to be built.
The color changes month by month. Yellow Scotch broom opens along the roadsides in June, followed by daisies, rugosa rose, beach pea and black-eyed Susans, then Queen Anne's lace, chicory and orange butterfly weed in high summer, and asters and goldenrod, in more kinds than most people can tell apart, from late August into October. That is also when the wild fruit ripens: beach plums in the dunes, blackberries and grapes along the walls, and the beach plum jelly you see at the farm stands comes from exactly these hedgerows.
Chilmark in its plain clothes: low scrub oak and huckleberry running down to the Sound, the hedgerows waiting for June.
The south shore is the part of Chilmark that will not sit still. Wind and surf take ground from the clay cliffs every year, and the black, white and red clay that slumps onto the sand at Lucy Vincent and along the Wequobsket Cliffs is resculpted by every winter's storms. The cliffs at Windy Gates, the private estate on those bluffs, were for decades the summer home of Roger Baldwin, the founder of the American Civil Liberties Union, who died in 1981 at 97. At Squibnocket the retreat was serious enough that in 2017 and 2018 the town removed the old stone revetment and rebuilt the beach parking lot about 100 feet farther back toward the pond. The cliffs are protected, so climbing and digging for clay are off limits, and so are the dunes.
For the sunset, head down to Menemsha and the public Menemsha Beach, a few minutes away by car.
Menemsha
On Chilmark's north shore, Menemsha is one of the island's last working fishing villages. It has:
- Two family-run fish markets
- A public beach that faces the sunset
- Docks, lobster boats, and working waterfront
- Boutiques and small seasonal shops
Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public and is many people's favorite place on the island to watch the sunset.
For real-time harbor conditions and coastal scenery, visit our Island Live Webcams.
Moored boats at dusk in Chilmark, the water still and pale with the last of the sky.
Know Before You Go
Know before you go
Lucy Vincent Beach and Squibnocket Beach require a Chilmark resident or registered-renter permit in summer. Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public year-round.
You can reach Chilmark by car, bike or Vineyard Transit Authority (VTA) bus, most directly by South Road or Middle Road from West Tisbury.
By bus, VTA Route 5 runs along South Road and Route 4 along North Road, both reached with a change at West Tisbury from the Vineyard Haven and Edgartown buses.
Skiffs, sailing dinghies and kayaks pulled up on the sand at Red Beach on the Menemsha side of the pond.
Questions
Questions about Chilmark
What makes Chilmark different?
Farmland, conserved open land, high ground over the ocean, and quiet. It is one of the calmest corners of the island.
Can visitors access Chilmark's beaches?
Lucy Vincent Beach and Squibnocket Beach require a Chilmark resident or registered-renter permit in summer. Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public year-round.
What do people do here?
Hiking Menemsha Hills, exploring farms, kayaking Quitsa Pond, photographing Lucy Vincent Beach, dining at Chilmark Tavern, and visiting Menemsha Harbor.
Still water at dusk: a glacial boulder at the shoreline, a few moored skiffs and the wooded far shore of a Chilmark pond.
Visitor rules, beach access and seasonal details are in our Martha's Vineyard FAQ.
The Record
Fun facts about Chilmark
More planning tips, beach details and up-Island ideas are in the Chilmark section on MV Vacation.
Chilmark on film
From Our Lens The up-Island quiet, in every light. 29 photographs · View the Chilmark gallery
+25 More photos: our Chilmark gallery. The rest of the island is in our photo galleries.
For the full 2026 guide with restaurants, events, and practical tips, read our Chilmark and Menemsha Complete Guide (2026).
Keep Reading
Keep reading
More of Chilmark on film
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Exploring Menemsha Hills: Bicycle Ride through the Woods on Martha's Vineyard -
Menemsha Hills Golden Hour, Relaxing Ocean Sounds at Sunset (2 Minutes) -
Lucy Vincent Beach Walking Tour on Martha's Vineyard -
Menemsha Beach, Sunset Vibes and Fishing Village, Martha’s Vineyard -
Lucy Vincent Beach Martha's Vineyard 2024 Spring -
Lobsterville Beach, Martha’s Vineyard, Hidden Gem Near Menemsha