Skip to content

Town Guide · Martha’s Vineyard · Up‑Island

Chilmark

Hilly moorlands, Menemsha fishing village, world-famous sunsets

41.3431° N · 70.7440° W · Beetlebung Corner
A boardwalk winding through weathered dead trees toward the ocean
A boardwalk · out to the water

A boardwalk bending through wind-killed trees, with the water flat and gray at the end of it.

Chilmark is a rural, up-Island town on the western side of Martha's Vineyard. The English-speaking community here dates to the 1600s, though the land has been home to the Wampanoag people for thousands of years. Chilmark today is preserved farmland, rolling hills and secluded beaches, with a tight-knit population of roughly 1,200 residents.

MV Vacation wrote and photographed this guide on the island.

We respectfully acknowledge the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah) as the original stewards of this land.

Chilmark sits between West Tisbury and Aquinnah, the quiet, rural middle of up-Island. It makes a good base for the western end of the island.

Finding Chilmark

Chilmark MassachusettsGoogle Maps

Beetlebung Corner

The center of Chilmark life sits at Beetlebung Corner, where South Road, Middle Road, and Menemsha Crossroad intersect. A handful of places do all the work here:

The essentials in Chilmark

03 STOPS
DINING · BYOB Chilmark Tavern Temporarily closed Closed for the season until May 2027, per its own site Temporarily closed Closed for the season until May 2027, per its own site

A BYOB restaurant (bring your own bottle: Chilmark is dry, so you carry in the wine and they supply the glasses), known for local ingredients and relaxed, upscale comfort food. Closed for the season; it reopens in May 2027.

THE HUB Chilmark General Store

The town's kitchen and meeting place in season: pantry staples, prepared food, sandwiches, pizza and beach basics. It closed for 2026 after October 9; in the off-season the Menemsha Store in the village stays open.

COMMUNITY Chilmark Community Center

Seasonal tennis, camps, film nights, lectures, and public events.

For more up-Island food, nearby West Tisbury has more farm stands and markets, and conservation land to walk.

The farms

Chilmark is one of the Vineyard's most agricultural communities, with active farms supplying produce, dairy, breads, and meats across the island.

04 FARMS
MIDDLE ROAD Mermaid Farm

Known for yogurt, feta, farmstand vegetables, and an honor-box dairy shed on Middle Road.

THE BARN STAND Beetlebung Farm

410 Middle Road, the farmstand in a restored eighteenth-century barn: produce, bread and coffee.

CLOSED Grey Barn Farm

Closed permanently to the public in September 2025.

ROADSIDE Local farmstands

Small roadside stands selling flowers, eggs, greens and whatever is in season.

The porch of the Chilmark General Store with flags and flower baskets A
Handwritten price board inside the Mermaid Farm stand B
Goats in a pen at a Chilmark farm C
Beetlebung Corner and the farms · three studies

A: the General Store porch, the town’s summer hub; B: the handwritten price board at the Mermaid Farm dairy shed; C: goats in a pen at a Chilmark farm.

Trails and ponds

Chilmark touches both Vineyard Sound and the Atlantic, and some of the island's best walking runs between the two.

Eroding sand cliffs above the surf on the Chilmark shore
Chilmark · eroding cliffsPhoto by MV Vacation

Where the moor gives out: sand cliffs, stairs and surf on the Chilmark shore.

05 PLACES
TRAILS Menemsha Hills Reservation

Rough trails up to overlooks above Vineyard Sound.

THE COVE Great Rock Bight Preserve

A wooded trail that ends at a small sandy cove.

FOR FAMILIES Island Folk Pottery Fairy Sculpture Trail

A free half-mile woodland path of sculptures and fairy houses, for kids and grown-ups alike, open daily from 9 AM until dusk.

PADDLING Quitsa Pond

Nashaquitsa on the map, Quitsa to everyone here: marsh grass, cattails and glacial boulders standing in brackish water, calm enough for kayaks and paddleboards. The pull-off on State Road above it is a favorite stop for the view, with the stone wall framing the boats below.

THE RUN Herring Creek

The creek between Menemsha Pond and Squibnocket Pond, on the line between Chilmark and Aquinnah, is a herring run the Wampanoag Tribe manages on tribal land. Alewives and bluebacks pass a seasonal counting weir from mid-March into June. It is best seen from the water or the road; there is no trail.

Chilmark's two ocean beaches are beautiful, and in summer they are restricted:

The beaches

Beaches in Chilmark

02 BEACHES
PERMIT ONLY Lucy Vincent Beach

Clay cliffs and Atlantic surf. Summer access requires a Chilmark resident or renter permit.

PERMIT ONLY Squibnocket Beach

Secluded shoreline with protected dunes. Also resident-permit-only in summer.

A single dark boulder in the surf on a nearly empty beach, shorebirds flying overhead and two walkers in the distance
Chilmark · a quiet beachPhoto by MV Vacation

One boulder in the wash, a flock of shorebirds overhead and only a couple of walkers far down the sand.

Chilmark's land, season by season

Chilmark has been a fishing and farming town for more than three centuries, and the land still reads that way: rolling hills, gray stone walls running down to the water, and trees pruned low and leaning by the southwest wind that blows most summer afternoons. Drive down toward Menemsha and you will see whole hillsides of oak and cedar bent the same direction. The fields at Keith Farm on Middle Road, with the barn, the stone wall and the split-rail fence, are one of the best-loved views from a public road on the island. It is a view to take in slowly, since the lane has no room to stop.

Sunflowers growing behind wire deer fencing beside a rural road
A garden by the road · late summerPhoto by MV Vacation

Sunflowers behind deer fencing at the edge of a lane, the way island gardens have to be built.

The color changes month by month. Yellow Scotch broom opens along the roadsides in June, followed by daisies, rugosa rose, beach pea and black-eyed Susans, then Queen Anne's lace, chicory and orange butterfly weed in high summer, and asters and goldenrod, in more kinds than most people can tell apart, from late August into October. That is also when the wild fruit ripens: beach plums in the dunes, blackberries and grapes along the walls, and the beach plum jelly you see at the farm stands comes from exactly these hedgerows.

Open moor of low bare scrub in Chilmark with the ocean on the horizon
The moor · open water beyondPhoto by MV Vacation

Chilmark in its plain clothes: low bare scrub running down to the water, the hedgerows waiting for June.

The south shore is the part of Chilmark that will not sit still. Wind and surf take ground from the clay cliffs every year, and the black, white and red clay that slumps onto the sand at Lucy Vincent and along the Wequobsket Cliffs is resculpted by every winter's storms. The cliffs at Windy Gates, the private estate on those bluffs, were for decades the summer home of Roger Baldwin, the founder of the American Civil Liberties Union, who died in 1981 at 97. At Squibnocket the retreat was serious enough that in 2017 and 2018 the town removed the old stone revetment and rebuilt the beach parking lot about 100 feet farther back toward the pond. The cliffs are protected, so climbing and digging for clay are off limits, and so are the dunes.

For the sunset, head down to Menemsha and the public Menemsha Beach, a few minutes away by car.

Menemsha

On Chilmark's north shore, Menemsha is one of the island's last working fishing villages. It has:

  • Two family-run fish markets
  • A public beach that faces the sunset
  • Docks, lobster boats, and working waterfront
  • Boutiques and small seasonal shops

Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public and is many people's favorite place on the island to watch the sunset.

For real-time harbor conditions and coastal scenery, visit our Island Live Webcams.

Small boats moored in a quiet up-Island cove at dusk in Chilmark
Up-Island waters · Chilmark

Moored boats at dusk in Chilmark, the water still and pale with the last of the sky.

Know before you go

BEACH PERMITS

Lucy Vincent Beach and Squibnocket Beach require a Chilmark resident or registered-renter permit in summer. Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public year-round.

GETTING HERE

You can reach Chilmark by car, bike or Vineyard Transit Authority (VTA) bus, most directly by South Road or Middle Road from West Tisbury.

BY BUS

By bus, VTA Route 5 runs along South Road and Route 4 along North Road. In summer you change at West Tisbury from the Vineyard Haven and Edgartown buses; on the off-season timetable (October 4 to April 15) the Route 2 and Route 3 buses from Vineyard Haven carry straight on as Routes 4 and 5, and only the Edgartown bus needs a change.

PARKING

Menemsha has about 75 free spaces on Basin Road by the fish markets, with posted time limits; the Lucy Vincent and Squibnocket lots are by town sticker in summer. More in our parking guide.

Colorful kayaks and small boats pulled up on a sandy beach
On the sand · boats pulled upPhoto by MV Vacation

Skiffs, sailing dinghies and kayaks pulled up in rows on the sand.

Questions about Chilmark

What makes Chilmark different?

Farmland, conserved open land, high ground over the ocean, and quiet. It is one of the calmest corners of the island.

Can visitors access Chilmark's beaches?

Lucy Vincent Beach and Squibnocket Beach require a Chilmark resident or registered-renter permit in summer. Menemsha Town Beach is open to the public year-round.

What do people do here?

Hiking Menemsha Hills, exploring farms, kayaking Quitsa Pond, photographing Lucy Vincent Beach, dining at Chilmark Tavern, and visiting Menemsha Harbor.

A large boulder at the edge of a calm pond at dusk with small boats moored beyond
A Chilmark pond · duskPhoto by MV Vacation

Still water at dusk: a glacial boulder at the shoreline, a few moored skiffs and the wooded far shore of a Chilmark pond.

Visitor rules, beach access and seasonal details are in our Martha's Vineyard FAQ.

The Record

Fun facts about Chilmark

Named by Governor Thomas Mayhew after Chilmark in Wiltshire, England, a village just up the road from his home town of Tisbury.
Chilmark once had one of the highest percentages of deaf residents in the U.S., which is how Martha's Vineyard Sign Language came about.
Noman's Land, south of Chilmark, was used for military training and is now a wildlife refuge closed to the public.
Chilmark has the highest point on Martha's Vineyard.
President Barack Obama vacationed in Chilmark multiple times during his presidency.
The open fields at Keith Farm on Middle Road keep one of Chilmark's best-loved farm views.
Roger Baldwin, founder of the American Civil Liberties Union, summered for decades at Windy Gates on the Chilmark shore.
Thomas Hart Benton's 1926 painting The Lord Is My Shepherd, of George and Sabrina West, a deaf Chilmark farm couple, is in the Whitney Museum's collection in New York; his student Jackson Pollock was among the guests who came to stay with the Bentons in Chilmark.
Chilmark has no yacht club, but the Menemsha Pond Races, a summer tradition going back at least six decades, put Herreshoff 12½s and other small boats on the pond; the organizers post the current schedule.
Captain Zeb Tilton, remembered as one of the last of the schooner men, sailed the coasting schooner Alice S. Wentworth for about 25 years, until 1943; the Martha's Vineyard Museum keeps his story.

More planning tips, beach details and up-Island ideas are in the Chilmark section on MV Vacation.

Chilmark on film

From Our Lens The up-Island quiet, in every light. 31 photographs · View the Chilmark gallery
+27

More photos: our Chilmark gallery. The rest of the island is in our photo galleries.

For the full 2026 guide with restaurants, events, and practical tips, read our Chilmark and Menemsha Complete Guide (2026).

The Vineyard in the Fall 2026 cover Martha's Vineyard Beach Guide 2026 cover Where to Stay on Martha's Vineyard 2026-27 cover What Martha's Vineyard Really Costs 2026-27 cover Four free downloads · 2026 The Beach Guide, the Fall Guide, Where to Stay and What It Really Costs Every beach, the fall season date by date, every town and price band for a stay, and the budget guide: four PDFs, free with the island letter.
No spam, one click to leave. See a sample first
Written and photographed on Martha's Vineyard by MV Vacation. All photos on this page were taken by MV Vacation during on-island filming and field research. Funded, in part, by the Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism.

More of Chilmark on film

Island prices, hours and details change often. Please verify with businesses before you go. Full disclaimer

We use cookies for trip planning, site stats and ads, including ads based on your browsing. To opt out, turn on Global Privacy Control in your browser. Cookie policy

WVVY 96.7

Island radio

Still playing·