Chilmark, Martha's Vineyard: The Complete Town Guide (2026)

Chilmark is Martha's Vineyard's most rural up-island town — a landscape of stone walls, rolling pastures, and a village center that amounts to a handful of buildings at a single crossroads. Everything revolves around Beetlebung Corner, where State Road, South Road, Middle Road, and Menemsha Crossroad converge. The town remains Martha's Vineyard's only dry municipality, lending its sole restaurant a peculiar BYOB charm. Beyond the corner, Chilmark offers the island's highest summit, a 262-year-old working sheep farm, a legendary flea market, and the grave of John Belushi. For Chilmark's famous fishing village, see our Menemsha complete guide. For a visual overview with photos, see the Chilmark town page.

Beetlebung Corner

Named for native tupelo trees (Nyssa sylvatica) — a name unique to Martha's Vineyard and used nowhere else in the world. The etymology connects to the island's whaling heritage: a "beetle" is a wooden mallet, a "bung" is a stopper for whale oil barrels, and the tupelo's exceptionally hard, cross-grained wood was ideal for making both. A grove of these trees still stands at the intersection, capable of living 650+ years, with leaves that turn spectacular reds and purples in autumn. Beetlebung Corner is Chilmark's entire commercial and civic core — post office, town hall, library, elementary school, fire station, general store, and tavern all within a stone's throw.

Chilmark General Store (7 State Road) — The community store tradition dates to 1875. Famous for its hand-stretched, thin-crust pizza — compared to New Haven-style apizza, called "outrageous" by Giada De Laurentiis on Food Network. Classic cheese $12/$18 (13"/17"), specialty pies up to $16/$24. The wide veranda with rocking chairs is the real draw — "pizza on the porch" is a quintessential Vineyard experience. Beyond pizza: named sandwiches are a major draw — the Road Race ($10.50, roasted chicken, avocado, romesco, aioli on ciabatta), the Brickyard ($10.50, roast beef, cheddar, caramelized onions, horseradish mayo), and the North End ($9.95, sopressata, ham, provolone, pesto on focaccia). Full breakfast until 11 AM with egg sandwiches, burritos, and croissants. Local produce from Morning Glory Farm, Grey Barn, Mermaid Farm, and Beetlebung Farm. Specialty cheeses from Vermont Creamery and Jasper Hill Farm. No alcohol (dry town). Open mid-May through October, 8 AM–6 PM daily in summer. (508) 645-3739.

The porch culture is legendary. Former owner Bill Rossi told the Vineyard Gazette: "I have heard that this is the center of the universe more than once." The wide veranda with rocking chairs draws locals, cyclists, families, and the occasional celebrity — Alan Dershowitz and Larry David's widely reported argument took place here. "Pizza on the porch" is a quintessential Martha's Vineyard ritual.

Chilmark Tavern (9 State Road) — "The wettest dry tavern in America." Opened 2010, the tavern's solution to Chilmark's 300-year alcohol ban: bring your own everything. Guests bring wine, beer, or spirits; the tavern provides chillers, glassware, and a creative menu of house-made mixers — Painkiller, Dark N' Stormy, Basil Lime Martini, Raspberry Lime Rickey. Corkage ~$12/bottle, individual mixers $5–8. The food is seasonal New American — island fluke, poulet frites, Creekstone burger, lobster pizza. Entrees $25–42. Reservations via Resy — essential in summer. 2026 season opens May 15, Thu–Mon 5–9:30 PM. (508) 645-9400.

Chilmark Chocolates — Closed since December 2019 after a 33-year run. Founded by Jan Campbell, then run for 33 years by Mary Beth Grady and Allison Burger, who were honored as Women of the Year in 2015 for their mission of employing workers with disabilities (featured in a 1987 New York Times article). Their handmade Belgian chocolates — Tashmoo Truffles, Chappy Chewies, Squibnuggets, Beetlebung Bars — became island legends. They famously closed for three weeks every August and had no website, no mail order. Their original sign is now in the Martha's Vineyard Museum. The spiritual successor is Salt Rock Chocolate Co., founded by sisters Ali and Sarah Flanders (who grew up next door and worked there as teenagers), selling at the West Tisbury Farmers Market.

Chilmark Free Public Library (522 South Road) — The oldest library on Martha's Vineyard (1882), with the highest per-capita circulation in Massachusetts — 60,000 items/year for ~900 residents. 34,000 items. The building dates to 1790. WiFi, computers, author talks, art exhibitions. (508) 645-3360.

Allen Farm — The Island's Oldest Working Farm

Established in 1762 by Jonathan Allen, this is the oldest continuously working family farm on Martha's Vineyard. Run by Clarissa Allen (since 1975, now 8th generation) and husband Mitchell Posin. 100 acres of pastureland, 100+ Corriedale sheep, always farmed organically — no pesticides or chemical fertilizers ever applied.

The farm shop sells hand-woven throws and blankets (woven on-site for 35+ years by Clare Ives), hand-knit sweaters, hats, yarn, plus grass-fed lamb, beef, chicken, and eggs. The property at 421 South Road is one of the most photographed spots on the island — open daily May–October, weekends through Christmas. Available for weddings. (508) 645-9064.

Menemsha Hills — The Island's Wildest Hiking

211 acres managed by The Trustees of Reservations, with ~3 miles of marked trails on two connected loops. The Harris Loop (~1 mile) climbs to Prospect Hill at 308 feet — the second-highest point on Martha's Vineyard — with views across Vineyard Sound to the Elizabeth Islands, Aquinnah, and Menemsha Harbor. The Nashawakemuck Loop (~1.5 miles) descends to a cliff-edge viewing platform and a rocky north-shore beach — "possibly one of the quietest seaside landscapes on the island."

The Brickyard Trail (1.6 miles one-way, red blazes) connects to the ruins of one of New England's first commercial brick operations, founded around 1642. At peak production (1851–1870), it employed ~75 workers including French-Canadian lumberjacks and produced 800,000 bricks/year, shipped to build Boston, New York, and Newport. Visible today: a 45-foot brick chimney (unstable — stay on paths), 10-foot cut-stone walls, the original water wheel and stone channels, railroad wheels, and worker barracks foundations. An osprey nests on the chimney. The trail features a storybook trail — wooden posts with children's book pages, popular with families. Allow 3+ hours round-trip. Other features: glacial boulders, vernal pools, excellent birding (northern gannets, blue-winged warblers, eastern box turtle). Rated 4.7 stars on AllTrails. Trailhead on North Road, parking for 20 cars. Free, year-round, sunrise to sunset. Wear hiking shoes — rocky, uneven terrain. Tick spray is essential. During hunting season (October–December), wear blaze orange. Dogs appear to be allowed on leash. For more trails, see our hiking guide.

Peaked Hill — Highest Point on Martha's Vineyard

311 feet above sea level — the highest point on all of Martha's Vineyard, Cape Cod, and the Islands. The 148.9-acre Peaked Hill Reservation (Martha's Vineyard Land Bank) features a 1.7-mile loop trail through scrub oak and wild blueberries (an August bonus), with views south to Nomans Land Island and west toward Aquinnah.

The well-known Radar Hill (308 ft) nearby was a WWII U.S. Army Signal Corps station — concrete foundations, foxholes, and mortar pits remain. Named glacial boulders — Wee Devil's Bed and Stonecutter's Rock — dot the landscape. Access via Tabor House Road off Middle Road. Free, year-round.

Abel's Hill Cemetery & John Belushi's Grave

One of the most visited celebrity graves in America. Belushi (1949–1982) was buried March 9, 1982; Dan Aykroyd led the funeral procession on his motorcycle. Originally in an unmarked plot deeper in the cemetery, the grave was moved to the entrance on May 27, 1983 after fans overwhelmed the site.

The slate headstone features a skull and crossbones in traditional New England Puritan "death's head" style. The inscription reads: "I may be gone, but Rock and Roll lives on." A large boulder across the path is carved "BELUSHI." Visitors leave beer bottles, cigarettes, coins, and movie quotes. Playwright Lillian Hellman is also buried here. 322 South Road — free, open to the public.

Chilmark Flea Market

The oldest outdoor flea market on Martha's Vineyard, launched in 1967 with five card tables. Now in its 59th year with 60+ vendors on a spacious grassy field. Every Wednesday and Saturday, 9 AM–2 PM, late June through early September. Handmade jewelry, wampum, hand-screened T-shirts, pottery, vintage Vineyard maps, antiques, farm produce, and coffee. Cash is king. 142 North Road — no admission, free parking. Sponsored by Chilmark Community Church.

Polly Hill Arboretum

Technically in West Tisbury but on the Chilmark border — a 72-acre botanical treasure on the National Register of Historic Places. Polly Hill (1907–2007) started planting at age 50, eventually introducing ~80 new plant varieties and growing camellias and magnolias thought impossible this far north.

Highlights: the North Tisbury azaleas (late May–mid June), a spectacular 284-foot Kousa dogwood allée (mid-June–July), and the Julian Hill Magnolia with 18-inch flowers. The arboretum holds a nationally accredited stewartia collection shared with Harvard's Arnold Arboretum. Grounds open daily sunrise–sunset year-round. Visitor Center Memorial Day–mid-October, 9:30 AM–4 PM. Admission $10 adults (May–Oct), $5 (Nov–Apr), kids 12 and under free. Family Explorer Backpacks and a Woodland Gnome Hunt for kids. 809 State Road. (508) 693-9426.

Lucy Vincent Beach — Chilmark's Most Coveted Shoreline

Summer (June 1–September 15): Restricted exclusively to Chilmark residents, their guests, and renters. Passes checked at a gate — no public access for non-residents during summer. Vehicle sticker: $100/season. Walk-on pass: $25/season.

Off-season (September 16–May 31): Open to everyone, free. This is the only way for non-renting visitors to experience Lucy Vincent Beach.

The beach is famous for its dramatic clay cliffs — glacial moraine deposits approximately 21,000 years old, with multi-colored sedimentary layers containing Miocene-era fossils (shark teeth, whale bones). Since 1915, over 400 feet of coastline has eroded. The iconic freestanding rock spire — described as "The Goddess" — collapsed the night of May 1, 2020. Powerful surf with unpredictable rip currents makes this one of the best bodysurfing beaches on the island. Lifeguards present in summer.

Squibnocket Beach — The After-5 PM Secret

Access restricted to Chilmark residents/renters June 15–Labor Day (sticker: $65/season). But here's the tip: after 5 PM, the parking lot opens to non-residents — perfect for sunset picnics, late-day surfing, or evening surfcasting. Off-season: open to all. Rockier than Lucy Vincent with powerful surf — one of MV's top surf spots. No lifeguards. President Obama and family accessed Squibnocket during their Chilmark vacations at nearby Blue Heron Farm.

Chilmark Community Center & The Road Race

520 South Road, near Beetlebung Corner. Programmed by the Chilmark Town Affairs Council (CTAC) since 1957. Facilities: tennis courts (hard and clay), basketball court, playing field, playground, sailing programs on Menemsha/Quitsa Ponds.

The Chilmark Road Race is a 5K on Middle Road, held the second Saturday in August. Founded in 1978, it finishes at Beetlebung Corner. Registration: $35 (ages 12+), capped at 1,600 runners — opens July 1 and frequently sells out within days. Course records: Men 14:38, Women 17:07. All proceeds benefit the Community Center.

The grounds host the biennial Martha's Vineyard Book Festival — the 2025 edition (20th anniversary) featured Jeffrey Goldberg, Kara Swisher, Wally Lamb, and Seth Meyers.

Fishing from Menemsha

The Menemsha jetty is one of the most productive shore fishing spots on all of Martha's Vineyard — freely accessible, no special permit beyond the $10 Massachusetts saltwater permit (free for 60+). September is the prime month for striped bass and false albacore, and the jetty is a premier spot during the annual Martha's Vineyard Striped Bass Derby.

Charter fishing: North Shore Charters (Captain Scott McDowell, 35+ years) — half-day $750–800, full day $1,500+. Menemsha Blues (Captain Jonathan Boyd) and Captain Clarke Charters also operate from the harbor. Species: striped bass, bluefish, bonito, false albacore, fluke, plus offshore tuna and marlin.

The Menemsha Bike Ferry (reopening June 2026) crosses the channel in under 3 minutes — $5 cash, carrying bikes, strollers, and dogs. It connects to Lobsterville Beach and Dogfish Bar in Aquinnah, saving 7 miles of hilly cycling.

The Scenic Roads

Chilmark's three main roads are attractions in themselves. Middle Road — "perhaps the least improved of island main roads" — passes Keith Farm where cows graze against an Atlantic Ocean backdrop. South Road features a historic stone animal pound from sheep farming days. North Road offers north-shore views and farm ponds. All three wind through miles of stone walls, many built as "Lace Walls" — single-thickness stone, loosely stacked with visible gaps — remnants of the island's sheep farming era.

Getting to Chilmark

VTA Route #4 (via North Road, direct to Menemsha) and Route #5 (via South Road to Aquinnah) serve Chilmark — currently fare-free. Drive: ~25 minutes from Vineyard Haven. Cycling is scenic but hilly — North Road from West Tisbury is the most beautiful route on the island.

The fishing village of Menemsha — with its legendary sunsets, Larsen's lobster, Dutcher Dock, and Jaws filming locations — sits at Chilmark's northwest corner. See our complete Menemsha guide for restaurants, parking, and sunset tips. Chilmark's restricted beaches (Lucy Vincent and Squibnocket) require resident stickers June through September — but Menemsha Beach is free and open to everyone, and the whole beach claps after a spectacular sunset. For all beach details, see Every Beach Ranked.