This island off the coast of Massachusetts has good beaches, a long history and a real year-round community, and a lot of the best of it sits just past the obvious stops. These are the beaches, trails, museums and places to eat that people who live on Martha's Vineyard use, whether it's your first visit or your tenth.
The six towns
How the island is laid out
Martha's Vineyard has six towns, and each has its own feel:
Edgartown: old captains' houses around a busy harbor.
Oak Bluffs: the colorful gingerbread cottages are here, and the town stays lively into the evening.
Vineyard Haven (Tisbury): the year-round ferry port, where a lot of the island's everyday business happens.
West Tisbury: farm country, and the center of island agriculture.
Chilmark: rural and hilly, with some of the island's priciest real estate.
Aquinnah: the clay cliffs, on land central to Wampanoag heritage.
Island culture
Martha’s Vineyard mixes old New England habits with a big summer arts scene. Writers, politicians and celebrities have vacationed here for decades, mostly because residents leave them alone. People here are used to visitors, and they don't put on a show for them.
The island’s humor is dry and turns up everywhere, including on the door of the tool rental barn at Tilton’s in Vineyard Haven, where the staff have written up their favorite customer questions between the horseshoes. Number one on the door: “I live on Chappy, do I have to pay the full day when I’ll only be using it a couple of hours?”
Vineyard Haven · Tilton RentalsPhoto by MV Vacation
The customer question door at Tilton’s tool rental barn: years of counter conversations, written up in marker between the horseshoes and old tools. Worth a look even if you aren’t renting a tiller.
For beach days
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Planning your visit
When to come
The season shapes the trip:
July and August: everything is open and everything is busy, the full summer scene.
May and June, September and October: good weather and far fewer people.
November to April: lower prices, a slower pace, and mostly year-rounders around you.
If you want our pick, it's late June or early September, when the weather is good and the crowds are manageable.
Getting there and around
The Steamship Authority ferry runs year-round from Woods Hole, MA. In summer, other boats run from New Bedford, MA, Hyannis, MA, and Quonset Point, RI.
Martha's Vineyard Airport (MVY) has flights to major East Coast cities.
The Vineyard Transit Authority (VTA) runs buses across the island.
A rental bike is one of the easiest ways around, with more than 30 miles of bike paths.
Places most visitors skip
Edgartown · small landmarksPhoto by MV Vacation
A whale tail and a whaleboat on a lawn behind a picket fence in Edgartown, a reminder of the town's whaling century.
Up-island · past the crowdsPhoto by MV Vacation
Boats on still water in Chilmark at the end of the day. Most of the summer crowd stays down-island, and up-island Chilmark and Aquinnah stay a lot quieter.
Beaches
Lobsterville Beach, Aquinnah: a quiet stretch for beachcombing and fishing. Sunrise here is worth the early alarm.
Lambert's Cove Beach, West Tisbury: calm, sheltered water that suits families. It’s resident-only during the day in summer, but anyone can come in the evening, which is when the sunsets happen anyway.
Moshup Beach, Aquinnah: below the clay cliffs. Low tide is the time to poke around the tidal pools. The cliffs are for admiring from a distance: the cliff face belongs to the Wampanoag Tribe and is a National Natural Landmark, and climbing it or taking clay is illegal.
Nature trails
Menemsha Hills Reservation: 211 acres of woodland and coastal habitat, with about three miles of trails that look out over Vineyard Sound.
Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary: 4 miles of trails through several habitats. The sanctuary also runs guided kayak tours, which get you onto the pond side.
Wasque Reservation, Chappaquiddick: remote and windblown, popular with birders and fishermen, with rare shorebirds and seals along the beach.
Aquinnah Cultural Center: the history and culture of the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah). In July and August the center runs a Wednesday-afternoon guided walk to the Gay Head Cliffs Overlook and the lighthouse.
Vincent House Museum, Edgartown: the oldest known house on the island, from 1672. The rooms show how island families lived in the colonial era.
Martha’s Vineyard Museum, Vineyard Haven: in a restored marine hospital, with exhibits on island history, including its whaling past and coastal ecology.
Where locals eat
At the dock · where locals eatPhoto by MV Vacation
The hull of a fishing boat at the dock, waterline and reflection. At Menemsha, locals buy their lobster straight off the boats.
Four local standbys
The Net Result, Vineyard Haven: a long-time local spot for lobster rolls and fresh seafood. The homemade chowder is good, and it's an easy place to pick up a beach picnic.
State Road Restaurant, West Tisbury: cooking built on local ingredients and the restaurant's own gardens. Dinner Tuesday to Saturday, and the bar seats are kept for walk-ins, which is where many locals end up.
Larsen’s Fish Market Temporarily closedClosed for the season until May 2027, per its own site, Menemsha: a plain seafood shack with fish straight off the boats. Closed for the season until May 2027; in summer, dinner to go, eaten on the beach while the sun sets over Menemsha.
Back Door Donuts Temporarily closedClosed for the 2026 season; back in 2027, per its own site, Oak Bluffs: hot donuts sold out the bakery's back door on summer nights (closed for the 2026 season, back in 2027). The apple fritter is the one people line up for.
Quieter things to do
The back roads · on two wheelsPhoto by MV Vacation
A lot of the island sits off the main roads: the state-forest paths, the pond landings and the dirt lanes the map barely shows.
Menemsha Pond by kayak: sheltered water on the Chilmark–Aquinnah line, with the Elizabeth Islands on the horizon across Vineyard Sound. Our kayaking guide covers the ponds, rentals and safety.
Island Alpaca Farm: a herd of Huacaya alpacas on a working farm. The farm store sells locally produced alpaca products.
Mytoi Japanese Garden, Chappaquiddick: a 14-acre garden with winding footpaths, small ponds, and native and exotic plants, and a good spot for a quiet picnic.
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When is the best time to see the quieter side of Martha's Vineyard?
Late June or early September, when it's warm and businesses are open but the July and August crowds have not arrived or have gone home. The off-season, November through April, is slower and cheaper, and you will mostly meet year-rounders. Our best time to visit guide breaks it down month by month.
Can visitors use Lambert's Cove Beach?
In summer, daytime access is for West Tisbury residents and renters with a sticker, enforced from 7 AM to 5 PM. After 5 PM anyone may walk in, just in time for the sunset. From mid-September to mid-June the beach is open to everyone. Details in our Lambert's Cove guide.
Do I need a car to reach these places?
Not for most of them. The VTA bus runs across the island and is currently fare-free, and the island has more than 30 miles of bike paths. Felix Neck, State Road Restaurant, the Net Result and, in season, Back Door Donuts are all easy without a car. See Martha's Vineyard without a car.
Can I climb the Aquinnah cliffs or take some clay?
No. The cliff face belongs to the Wampanoag Tribe and is a National Natural Landmark, so climbing it or removing clay is illegal. Moshup Beach below is a lovely low-tide walk, with the cliffs seen from a distance. Our Aquinnah guide explains what to expect.
Which of these spots work well with kids?
Island Alpaca Farm and its herd of Huacaya alpacas usually go over well. Mytoi's 14 acres of paths and ponds make a quiet picnic stop, and Felix Neck has 4 miles of trails plus guided kayak tours. Lambert's Cove in the evening has calm water. More ideas in our family guide.
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Disclaimer: The information in this article is provided for general guidance only and was accurate at the time of writing. Beach conditions, hours, prices, lifeguard schedules, ferry fares, and business operations change frequently and without notice. Ocean swimming carries inherent risks including rip currents, undertow, and cold water shock. Always verify current conditions with official local sources before your visit. MV Vacation assumes no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience resulting from the use of this information. Swim only where lifeguards are on duty, supervise children at all times near water, and follow all posted safety signs.
A guide to Martha's Vineyard, written on the island: beaches, dining, events and island living. We write down what we know about the island so your trip goes the way you hoped.
Where Martha's Vineyard is, with our own maps: an island in Dukes County, Massachusetts, under four miles across Vineyard Sound from Woods Hole on Cape Cod, 75 miles from Boston and 70 from Providence by road. How big it is, the six towns, up-island and down-island, every way to get there and where the name comes from.
Martha's Vineyard in December 2026: First Friday on December 4, Light Up Oak Bluffs on December 5, Christmas in Edgartown December 10 to 13, 4:15 sunsets, one ferry into Vineyard Haven, and what stays open through Christmas.
All six town libraries on Martha's Vineyard, checked October 2026: hours and addresses, how visitors get a library card, free Wi-Fi, the concerts, art shows and programs, the Libraries of Things with beach chairs and stargazing kits, museum and beach parking passes, and a short history of each building.
Cell service on Martha's Vineyard town by town: towers down-island, no tower in Chilmark or Aquinnah and the named dead spots, what each carrier reports to the FCC, free Wi-Fi at all six libraries and on the ferry, the $10 xfinitywifi pass, prepaid plans and 911 when you have no bars.
The twelve things that catch first-timers on Martha's Vineyard, from car reservations and the two ferry terminals to resident-only beaches, the last bus from Aquinnah and cash for the Chappy Ferry, each with an easy fix, plus the fall and winter dates.
EV charging on Martha's Vineyard: about 34 public stations, nearly all Level 2, listed town by town with ports and prices (the Edgartown Park and Ride, town halls, libraries, the airport, the Aquinnah cliffs), two fast-charging ports at the VTA, the Chilmark plans, no Supercharger, the ferry's EV rules, and how to run an electric week on a 20-mile island.
Island tip of the dayTimingNo. 61 of 79New tip at midnight, island time
Visit Edgartown on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Same beautiful town, maybe 30% of the weekend crowds. Most restaurants have availability without reservations.
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