Visiting Aquinnah Respectfully: The Wampanoag Homeland at the Island's Edge (2026)
The Gay Head Cliffs are sacred Wampanoag land, not just a viewpoint. What visitors are welcome to in Aquinnah, what the rules protect, and how to be a good guest.

Martha's Vineyard restaurant guide 2026: new openings, reservation tips, BYOB rules, and dining picks from fine dining to casual.
Martha's Vineyard's restaurant scene spans James Beard semifinalists to legendary clam shacks, and 2026 brings the most exciting wave of new openings in years. This guide covers where to eat by category, how to book, and the essential BYOB logistics for the island's dry and semi-dry towns. For ranked lists of the best lobster roll, pizza, breakfast, and ice cream (plus town-by-town food tours), see our Food Tour guide. Staying overnight? See Where to Stay.

Table of contents [Show]
Black Joy Kitchen (7 Oakland Ave, Oak Bluffs): Chef Allessandra "Ting" Bradley-Burns serves African Diaspora cuisine tracing foods from West Africa through Brazil, Peru, the Caribbean, and the American South. Not soul food: think Somali coconut fish curry, Ethiopian Doro Wat, Peruvian huacatay shrimp, and "Billionaire's Bacon Bouquet." 80% of the menu is vegan/vegetarian/GF. Wednesday Chef's Table $75 prix fixe, Saturday dinner from 5 PM, Sunday BrunchBQ with DJ. All-Black-owned wine program. A 2% surcharge supports the Wampanoag community. Year-round. Resy.
Indigo (266 Upper Main St, Edgartown): Martha's Vineyard's first Indian restaurant. Owner Babu Koganti (Rebel Foods, 20+ restaurants off-island). Tandoor dishes, seven house-made naans, biryanis, OG Butter Chicken ($26), and an Indo-Chinese "Mumbai to Martha's" fusion section. Spiced cocktails with chaat masala and cardamom. Year-round. Resy.
Ocean Club (75 Main St, Vineyard Haven): In the historic Old Stone Bank building. Boston's Lyons Group with chef Marc Orfaly, a six-time James Beard "Best Chefs" nominee. Fine dining seafood and pasta, 85 seats. The former bank vault door leads to a semi-private dining table inside the vault; request it when booking. Wed–Sun 5–9 PM. Year-round.
Highlands General (25 Circuit Ave, Oak Bluffs): Replaced the beloved Linda Jean's (closed February 2025 after 40+ years, building sold for $4.9M). Fast-casual, counter-order restaurant and market. Affordable breakfast, lunch, and coffee. Year-round.
9 Craft Kitchen (9 Main St, Vineyard Haven): Connected to Mansion House Hotel. Owner Joseph Monteiro (also 19 Raw, Edgartown). New American with Asian, Peruvian, and Italian influences: cast-iron swordfish, lobster tostadas, craft cocktails. Vineyard Haven's first serious cocktail bar. 130 seats. Dinner only. Reservations via Toast ($35 cancellation fee within 24 hrs).
El Barco (Main St, Vineyard Haven): Mexican street food with 70 seats. Tacos, burritos, and margaritas in a casual setting. Opened summer 2024 as part of Vineyard Haven's restaurant boom following the 2022 alcohol law changes.
Behind the Bookstore (behind Edgartown Books, Edgartown): All-day cafe by day, the Hemingway Bar by night. Coffee, pastries, and light fare mornings through afternoon; cocktails and small plates evenings. A clever dual-concept space.

Esh (Circuit Ave, Oak Bluffs): Rebranded from Dos Mas in March 2026. "Progressive American" with a new California chef. The menu pivots from Mexican to a broader seasonal American approach. Early reviews suggest creative small plates and an ambitious wine list.
State Road Restaurant (West Tisbury) earned a 2026 James Beard semifinalist nod for Outstanding Hospitality, a milestone for MV dining and only the second Vineyard restaurant ever nominated in a non-regional category.
The island's dining landscape shifts every year. These closures are worth knowing about:
The island letter
Three island guides, free on arrival
The Beach Guide, The Vineyard in the Fall and Where to Stay, plus a short letter from the island when there is something worth telling.
One-click unsubscribe, and we never share your email.
The biggest story in MV dining over the past two years has been the transformation of Vineyard Haven. After the town approved full liquor with meals in 2017, then alcohol without food in a 2022 vote, nine new restaurants opened in 2024–2025 alone. Before the vote, Vineyard Haven had a handful of casual spots and no real cocktail bars. Now Main Street rivals Edgartown for dining options.
Key additions beyond Ocean Club and 9 Craft Kitchen include El Barco (Mexican), The Attic at Waterside (elevated tavern with MV's largest bourbon collection above Waterside Market), and several others. For visitors staying in or near Vineyard Haven, this means you no longer need to drive to Edgartown or Oak Bluffs for a proper dinner out.
Oak Bluffs has the most restaurants and the most variety: from harbor-view seafood at Nancy's to craft beer at Offshore Ale to the new Black Joy Kitchen. Circuit Avenue and the harbor area are walkable, and most places are casual enough for sandy flip-flops. OB is also where you will find the island's best late-night food options, including Back Door Donuts. Key spots:

Edgartown is the fine dining capital of the island. Upper Main Street and North Water Street are home to most of MV's white-tablecloth restaurants. The dress code skews smarter here: collared shirts and sundresses are the norm at dinner. Edgartown also has the island's best concentration of wine shops, making it easy to pair a bottle purchase with dinner reservations up-island.
Transformed by 9 new restaurants in 2024–2025. Vineyard Haven is now a legitimate dining destination. If you are arriving on the Steamship Authority ferry, you can walk to every restaurant on this list from the terminal.
West Tisbury is rural and has fewer restaurants, but the ones here are standouts:
Menemsha is a working fishing village and the sunset dinner capital of the island. Chilmark is the only fully dry town on Martha's Vineyard: every restaurant here is BYOB. This means you need to plan ahead: buy wine or beer in Edgartown or Oak Bluffs before driving up-island, because there are no liquor stores anywhere west of Edgartown.
For the complete Menemsha guide including sunset timing and parking, see our Menemsha village guide. For the best lobster rolls ranked, see the Food Tour guide.
Planning an off-season visit? Most MV restaurants are seasonal (Memorial Day through Columbus Day). These stay open year-round, though hours may be reduced in winter:
Year-round restaurants are concentrated in the three down-island towns. Up-island (West Tisbury, Chilmark, Aquinnah), options are extremely limited from November through April.
The rule is simple: upscale = Resy, casual = walk-in. No MV restaurants use Tock, and only a handful (Homeport, Ocean Club, MV Chowder Company, Sweet Life) take OpenTable.
| Platform | Restaurants |
|---|---|
| Resy | Détente, Atria, Alchemy, State Road, Black Joy Kitchen, Indigo, Red Cat Kitchen, Bettini |
| OpenTable | The Homeport (Menemsha): only one on the island |
| Toast | 9 Craft Kitchen ($35 cancellation fee within 24 hrs) |
| Walk-in only | Offshore Ale, Nancy's, Among the Flowers, Lookout Tavern, ArtCliff Diner, Biscuits, Net Result, Larsen's, The Galley |
Peak season strategy: Book Resy restaurants 1–2 weeks ahead for July–August. State Road Restaurant is the hardest reservation on the island; one reviewer described "finally scoring a 9 PM Monday reservation booked three weeks in advance." Walk-in strategy: eat your main meal at lunch, or aim for dinner before 5:30 PM or after 8:30 PM. Weekday dinners are significantly easier to book than Friday–Saturday. If you strike out on Resy, check again at 3 PM the day of; cancellations often drop same-day tables.
Chilmark is the only fully dry town remaining on Martha's Vineyard. All Menemsha and Chilmark restaurants are BYOB: Homeport supplies mixers, Chilmark Tavern's bar staff creates cocktails from your spirits with house-made elixirs. Typical corkage fee is $14 per bottle of wine. West Tisbury and Aquinnah now allow beer and wine at restaurants. Vineyard Haven approved full liquor at restaurants in 2017.
Correction: State Road Restaurant is no longer BYOB; it now serves beer and wine. The Outermost Inn (Aquinnah) also no longer allows BYOB.
Package stores exist only in Edgartown and Oak Bluffs: there are no liquor stores past Edgartown headed up-island. If you are heading to Chilmark or Menemsha for dinner, buy wine before you leave. Here are your options:
| Store | Town | Delivery | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Our Market | Oak Bluffs | Island-wide $3–10 | Largest selection. Since 1919. Call by 2 PM |
| Jim's Package Store | Oak Bluffs | Island-wide | Wines, spirits, walk-in cigar humidor |
| Al's Package Store | Edgartown | None | 258 Upper Main St. 41+ years |
| Rosewater Wine | Edgartown | None | 65 Main St. Sommelier on staff |
| Your Market | Edgartown | Island-wide | 249 EV Haven Rd. Wine, beer, spirits + groceries |
There are no liquor stores in Vineyard Haven, West Tisbury, Chilmark, or Aquinnah. Tony's Market (OB) sells beer and wine only at competitive prices.
What to expect per person (food only, no drinks):
Best value tip: Cook at your rental: buy fish from Larsen's or Net Result, produce from Morning Glory Farm, bread from Iggy's. Offshore Ale is the best-value dinner out. For getting around to restaurants without a car, the VTA bus is currently fare-free and connects all three down-island towns.
Not sure where to eat? Here are quick picks by occasion:
Martha's Vineyard has a growing food truck scene, especially in Oak Bluffs and near the ferry terminals. They are a great option for a quick, affordable meal between activities:
For the complete restaurant directory with all 68 restaurants by town, see our Restaurants page. Planning your trip? Start with our one-day itinerary, the full family guide, or our June visitor's guide. Coming from Boston? See our Boston to MV transport guide. And for the complete ranked list of where to eat by category (lobster rolls, pizza, breakfast, and more), do not miss the Food Tour guide.
Book Martha's Vineyard Experiences
Explore guided island tours, sunset cruises, and day trips. Browse all tours →
If you book through this link we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It helps keep our guides free.
For a deeper look at one of OB's less-known spots, read our review of Nomans Restaurant.
Island Tip of the Day · Timing
The SSA ferry from Vineyard Haven is least crowded Tuesday and Wednesday mornings. Avoid Friday (heavy arrivals) and Sunday (heavy departures).
Three free downloads · 2026 editions
Three island guides, in your inbox
The Beach Guide (all 20 beaches decoded), The Vineyard in the Fall, the season date by date, and Where to Stay, every town and price band. All three PDFs free, plus a short island letter when there is something worth telling. No schedule, no spam.
No spam, unsubscribe in one click. Want a look first? See what you get.
First email ever from us? Give it a minute, and peek in spam once.
Your insider guide to Martha's Vineyard: beaches, dining, events, and island living. We share local knowledge to help you plan the perfect Vineyard getaway.
The Gay Head Cliffs are sacred Wampanoag land, not just a viewpoint. What visitors are welcome to in Aquinnah, what the rules protect, and how to be a good guest.
Shearer Cottage, Dorothy West, the Inkwell and 30 marked sites across the island: how to walk or tour the African American Heritage Trail of Martha's Vineyard.
New Woods Hole terminal, fare-free buses, new restaurants in Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven, a reopened lighthouse and more: everything that changed on the island in 2026.
Which Martha's Vineyard beaches are open to visitors, which need stickers or permits, and what everything costs in 2026: town by town, gate by gate.
On August 19, 1991, Hurricane Bob hit Martha's Vineyard at the height of the season: 98 mph winds, 84 boats wrecked in Edgartown Harbor alone, a sloop in the Harborside Inn pool, and a false autumn by Labor Day. The story of the storm, told through an original Vineyard Gazette storm edition we found in an island thrift shop.
Fall 2026 on Martha's Vineyard: the September 10 and October 12 deadlines, beaches that open to everyone September 16, the Derby, scalloping by town, foliage timing and honest closing dates.
The free island library · 2026
Beach reports, events worth a day, ferry heads-ups. Sent when there is something worth telling. The Beach Guide, The Vineyard in the Fall and Where to Stay arrive with your welcome email.
Get the free guidesIsland prices, hours and details change often. Please verify with businesses before you go. Full disclaimer

Three free downloads · 2026
The island guides, in your inbox
The Beach Guide, The Vineyard in the Fall and Where to Stay. No spam, one-click unsubscribe.
These cookies are essential for the website to function properly.
These cookies help us understand how visitors interact with the website.
These cookies are used to deliver personalized advertisements.


