Plan a Chappaquiddick day trip: the On Time Ferry, Mytoi Japanese garden, Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge, Wasque Beach, and biking routes on Martha's Vineyard.
Chappaquiddick is once again a true island. A New Year's Day 2026 breach at Norton Point severed the sand barrier connecting it to Martha's Vineyard. The only way in or out is the On Time Ferry, a 527-foot, 90-second crossing from Edgartown Harbor. No gas stations, no real restaurants, famously spotty cell service. That remoteness is the point.
Aboard the On Time ferry with a car loaded, crossing from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick.
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Summer line of cars and walk-ons for the Chappy Ferry on Dock Street in Edgartown.
Chappy Ferry crossing to Chappaquiddick.
Privately owned by Chappaquiddick Ferry, Inc. since the early 1800s. The name is not about a schedule. The original 1948 boat had a 16-day construction deadline and made it. When operator Tony Bettencourt resigned in June 1948, replacement Foster B. Silva had just 16 days. Captain Samuel B. Norton led a community barn-raising effort, building the boat upside-down outdoors, and the ferry was christened "On Time" because it hit its August 2 launch date. The service dates to at least 1807, making it one of MV's oldest maritime businesses. Two vessels operate: On Time II (1969) and On Time III (1975). Each carries ~3 cars plus passengers.
2026 fares (round-trip; cash onboard, card kiosk on the Edgartown side): Foot passenger $5, bike+rider $8, car+driver $17. Summer: 6:30 AM–midnight, continuous. Peak car waits exceed 1 hour. Walk or bike on to skip the line entirely. On the Chappy side the schedule is painted on the shingled shed by the ramp, next to the mailbox: summer hours from the Thursday before Memorial Day to the last day of the Derby in mid-October, then winter hours of 6:30 AM to 10 PM with one late run at 11. The loading sign is the local etiquette in three lines: two vehicles, then passengers, then a vehicle, and headlights off while you wait. Webcams at chappyferry.com show the line in real time. The ferry appeared in the original Jaws (1975) as the "Amity On Time." After decades under Peter Wells (skipper since 1974) and Sally Snipes, the wheel passed to captain Brian Scall in August 2026, the ferry's first change of hands in about two decades.
The Chappy side of the crossing: the schedule shed, the mailbox, the ramp and the sign that says headlights off.
A 14-acre Japanese-inspired stroll garden created 1958–1965 by architect Hugh Jones, who received the land for $1 as payment for designing a neighbor's house. He died in 1965 while working in the garden. Hurricane Bob (1991) destroyed 70% of plantings; landscape architect Julie Moir Messervy (first Western woman to apprentice under a Japanese master) redesigned it.
We have a full Mytoi guide: hours, the seasonal fee, the fifteen-car lot and the garden's history.
Features: central koi pond, zigzag bridge, camellia dell, stone garden, azumaya shelter. Daily sunrise to sunset. May–Oct: $10 nonmembers, $5 basic Trustees members (free at Contributing level and up), children 12 and under free; free for everyone November–April. 15 parking spots (fills fast). Dogs not allowed. Best blooms: late May–June (rhododendrons, azaleas). Most visitors spend 30–60 minutes. ~2.5 miles from ferry.
Family highlights: Exploration backpacks with guided science activities and plein air art kits available free. The annual goldfish release (typically July) includes crafts and snacks. Illuminate Mytoi, a holiday luminary walk in December (first held 2023, now recurring), is worth timing a winter trip around. Guided "Mytoi Meander" tours led by 47-year volunteer Lindsay Patterson Allison run seasonally.
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Cape Poge wildlife refuge sign on Chappaquiddick.
seven miles of barrier beach with the Cape Poge Lighthouse (first built 1801, current tower 1893, moved 500 feet by helicopter in 1987, the first lighthouse ever relocated this way. Relentless erosion had previously forced moves in 1907, 1922, and 1960. The original fourth-order Fresnel lens was replaced by a solar-powered 300mm optic, flashing white every six seconds, visible 9 miles at sea. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places). Managed by The Trustees since 1959.
Guided tours run most summers: a Lighthouse Tour (a 4WD ride out plus the climb) and a Wildlife Discovery Kayak Tour through Poucha Pond and under Dike Bridge. The Trustees ticketing system moved recently, so confirm the current season and prices with them directly (617-542-7696). Tours can arrange pickup at the Chappy Ferry landing.
Cape Poge Gut at the northern tip is one of the island's best-known fishing spots: powerful tidal currents attract striped bass, bluefish, bonito, and albacore. Free walk/bike access (new 2025). Season OSV permits are sold through the Trustees ticketing system and now bundle a membership level; call for current pricing. Piping plover closures affect access June–July.
Wildlife: Piping plovers (federally threatened), least terns, roseate terns (endangered), American oystercatchers nest here. Monarch butterflies feed on Northern Blazing Star before migrating south. Harbor and gray seals inhabit surrounding waters. A century-old Eastern red cedar grove ("The Cedars"), sculpted by salt spray, offers rare coastal forest habitat. The refuge sits along the Atlantic Flyway. September is prime for migratory bird observation.
Named #1 beach in New England by Travel + Leisure. Half-mile trail through rare sand barrens to wide Atlantic beach. Wasque Point is famous among surf fishermen because the "Wasque Rip" butts directly against the beach. Tidal currents averaging six knots funnel baitfish (squid, sand eels, lady crabs) through Muskeget Channel between Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Predatory fish position themselves to ambush this prey, and anglers can cast directly into the rip from shore. Swimming is hazardous: six-knot currents and a growing seal population on nearby sand islands may attract feeding sharks. The Trustees explicitly warn: "Avoid swimming in areas where seals are present." For swimming on Chappy, use East Beach/Leland Beach instead. Vehicle parking $25 nonmembers. Walk/bike free. Free library passes available. New 2025: floating beach wheelchair and Mobi-mat.
The 502-foot breach opened January 1, 2026, severing Chappy from South Beach/Katama. Expected to persist throughout 2026 and possibly years (the 2007 breach lasted 8 years). No OSV route from Norton Point to Wasque. The Chappy Ferry is the only access.
No bike rental on Chappaquiddick. Rent in Edgartown: R.W. Cutler (1 Main St, ~$35/day), Wheel Happy (~$25/day). Get hybrid or wide-tire bikes; skinny tires struggle on sandy sections. Chappaquiddick Road is paved for ~4 miles (see our cycling guide); Dike Road and Wasque Road become dirt/sand.
Chappy Ferry terminal on the Edgartown waterfront.
Key distances from ferry: Chappy Store ~2 mi, Mytoi ~2.5 mi, Dike Bridge ~3.5 mi, Wasque ~3.5 mi. Full loop: 10–12 miles.
219 Chappaquiddick Road. Seasonal only (~late June–early September, 8 AM–3 PM). Basic groceries, snacks, sunscreen, coffee. Adjacent Blackbird Café food truck serves sandwiches and ice cream. Slipaway Farm (199 Chappaquiddick Rd) sells organic produce and flowers on an honor system (June–September). But beyond these, there is no food on Chappaquiddick. Outside the season, bring everything from Edgartown.
Dike Bridge on Chappaquiddick.
On the evening of July 18, 1969, a car driven by Senator Ted Kennedy went off the narrow, then guardrail-less bridge into the tidal channel. His passenger, Mary Jo Kopechne, a 28-year-old political aide, drowned. Kennedy did not report the accident until the following morning, after the car had already been found, and he later pleaded guilty to leaving the scene of an accident. The incident shadowed the rest of his career and made "Chappaquiddick" a household name far beyond this quiet island.
Visitors come to see the bridge because of its place in American history. It is also the site of a young woman's death. Read the history before you come; there is nothing at the bridge to explain it.
The current bridge (rebuilt 1995) has sturdy metal guardrails. A $4.3 million repair project was recently needed for its 170-year-old bulkhead. There is no official historical marker: the bolted guardrails are the only physical indicator. Thousands visit annually, though locals consider it a sensitive subject.
"Chappaquiddick" comes from the Wampanoag word "cheppiaquidne" meaning "separated island", a name that keeps coming true. Chappaquiddick has been home to the Chappaquiddick Wampanoag for at least 12,000 years, and the tribe still holds land in the island's interior today.
On Time II ferry crossing from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick.
The 2020 Census recorded 253 permanent residents (up from 179 in 2010). Summer population swells to roughly 3,500. No hotels exist, only vacation rentals (VRBO/Airbnb). Many families rent the same house year after year, so book well in advance.
Packed lunch, 2+ liters water, sunscreen, tick repellent (high-risk Lyme disease territory), cash or check for ferry, swimsuit, layers, and a bike tire repair kit. Download offline maps. Cell coverage is unreliable.
Passengers boarding the Chappy Ferry in Edgartown.
For getting to Edgartown, see our Ferry Guide, car-free travel guide, or the Edgartown Town Guide.
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Edgartown Lighthouse is climbable daily in summer, roughly 10 AM–4 PM, with the shortest waits right at opening. Small admission ($5 at last check). Staff may close the door a few minutes early.
Mytoi, the Japanese garden on Chappaquiddick: how to get there on the Chappy ferry, the 15-car lot, hours and admission by season, the pond and bridge, birch walk and camellia dell, the story of Hugh Jones, Mary Wakeman and the rebuild after Hurricane Bob, rules, accessibility and when to go.
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On August 19, 1991, Hurricane Bob hit Martha's Vineyard at the height of the season: 98 mph winds, 84 boats wrecked in Edgartown Harbor alone, a sloop in the Harborside Inn pool, and a false autumn by Labor Day. The story of the storm, told through an original Vineyard Gazette storm edition we found in an island thrift shop.
Inside Edgartown's 4th of July: the Main Street parade with fifes, floats, classic cars and Camp Jabberwocky, then fireworks over the harbor, with photos, video and tips for doing the day right.
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